I recommend any person with a trussed neck (on the guitar, not
like the one you wear around your neck after an accident!) to
learn how to adjust the truss rod if possible. With old style
Fender guitars which have the adjustment inconveniently located
at the base of the neck, (I have a couple) I just adjust the height
of the bridge pieces seasonally to compensate, as removal of the
neck is not something I like to do often on a good sounding guitar.
It becomes a matter of experimentation and estimation as to the
correct average setting to suite.
I find a common fault with electric guitars is an under-adjusted
truss rod which causes problems when heavier (sensible) string
gauges are used.
Mathematically speaking, the vertical component of the string
tension (assuming the guitar is sitting on a table top ...) on
the neck is proportional to the sine of the summed angle of the
string tension within the neck to the plane of the fret board.
In other words, the bowing force is not linear with action height.
Thus heavier strings have a compounding effect, whereby the extra
tension on the neck causes it to bow, thus increasing the angle
and causing more height - and more upward movement, or bowing.
This is even more pronounced with the Strat ® vibrato bridge,
which rises up with small increases in tension. My general spec
on this is allow the vibrato to flatten out to produce about one
and a bit semitones sharp on the bottom E.
I have found, that by doing incremental adjustment, a neck which
has become bowed can gradually be trained out of it's bad habits,
but great care must be taken not to over do it.
Some guitars sound good if the bow of the neck allows clean action
near the nut, and sharpens up in the upper frets by virtue of
the strings having effectively a lower action on the upper frets.
Others will play and sound better with an even (straight neck)
action all the way up.
In the end, each guitar is different, and requires it's own assessment.